LIVING WITH FIRE

A GUIDE FOR THE HOMEOWNER

(Diana Johnson)

 

Bitterroot National Forest - John McColgan

Bitterroot National Forest  ByJohn McColgan

One of the best publications I have found for “Living with Fire” is a tabloid prepared by the University of Nevada and the Sierra Front Wildlife Cooperators.  The Energy, Minerals and Natural Resources Department, Forestry Division State Forester and Fire for the State of New Mexico modified it, with permission.  Most of the following article is from that publication.

 

“Much of New Mexico from the East Mountains outside Albuquerque, to Angel Fire and Silver City, Santa Fe and Ruidoso are considered a high fire environment. Based on past experience, the areas possess all the ingredients necessary to support large, intense and uncontrollable wildfires.

 

“Within this hazardous environment, there are individual homes, subdivisions and entire communities.  Many of these homeowners, however, are ill prepared to survive an intense wildfire.  Since it is not a question of “if” a wildfire will occur but “when”,” the likelihood of human life and property loss is great and growing.

 

“There is increasing recognition that our ability to live more safely in this fire environment depends on “pre-fire activities.”  Pre-fire activities are actions taken before wildfire occurs, which improve the survivability of people and homes.  We cannot “fire proof” the forest, but we can provide for proper vegetation management around the homes (known as defensible space), use of fire resistant building materials, appropriate subdivision design, and other measures.  Research clearly indicates that pre-fire activities save lives and property.

 

“The look of our Southwestern forests has changed dramatically during this past century.  Throughout our forests there is a huge biomass increase.  In many instances, tree size is smaller, stands more dense and insect and disease outbreaks rampant.  Fire, which plays an integral role in our Southwestern forest’s ecosystems, can become catastrophic due to fuel build-up.”

 

THE FIRE ENVIRONMENT

The “fire environment” is defined as the “surrounding conditions, influences, and modifying forces that determine wildfire behavior.”  Firefighters recognize three components of the fire environment:  weather, topography, and fuel.  Together, these three components affect the likelihood of a fire start, speed and direction at which a wildfire will travel, intensity at which a wildfire burns, and the ability to control and extinguish a wildfire.  Although weather and topography cannot be changed, the fuels (or vegetation) can be modified.  Consequently, any of our opportunities to reduce the wildfire threat lie in proper management and manipulation of wild land vegetation. 

 

Weather:  Dry, hot and windy weather increases the likelihood of major wildfire.  These conditions make ignition easier, allow fuel to burn more rapidly, and increase fire intensity.  High wind speed, in particular, can transform a small, easily controllable fire into a catastrophic event in a matter of minutes.

 

Topography:  Of the topographic features, the steepness of slope is among the most influential on fire behavior.  As the steepness of slope increases, the faster a fire will spread.  Other important topographic features include aspect ( south and southwest slopes usually have more fires) and steep, narrow drainages (chimney) which can significantly increase the role of fire spread.

 

Fuel:  Fuel is required for any fire to burn.  In regards to wildfire, fuel almost always consists of living vegetation (trees, shrubs, grass, and wildflowers) and dead plant material (dead trees, dried grass, fallen branches, pine needles, etc.)  Houses, when involved in a wild fire, become a source of fuel.  The amount, size, moisture content, arrangement, and other fuel characteristics influence ease of ignition, rate of fire spread, length of flames produced, and other fire behaviors.

 

The Human Environment:  When people are living in high hazard fire environments, the human built environment becomes an important factor in predicting the loss of life and property.  Untreated wood shake and shingle roofs, narrow roads, limited access, lack of fire-wise landscaping, inadequate water supplies, and poorly planned subdivisions are examples of increased risk to people living with the threat of wildfires.

 

MOUNTAINOUS FIRE BEHAVIOR

Assuming a wind speed of 20 mph, flat terrain, typical moisture content of living and dead vegetation in the summertime, a computer generated estimate indicates that a ponderosa pine forest fire will travel at 1 ½ mph with a flame length of 10 feet.  150 acres can burn after one hour.  Depending upon the elevation, ponderosa pine can transition from pinyon-juniper to mixed conifer and aspen at high elevations.  The ground cover consists of tightly packed needles, twigs, old logs and grass.

 

A mixed conifer forest consists of white fir, Douglas-fir and blue spruce.  It is found at higher elevations above 8000 feet.  Usually this type of forest consists of the densest forest with the heaviest fuel loading.  A fire will travel at ¼ mph under the above criteria and have a flame length of 8 ft.  10 acres can burn after one hour.

 

With flame lengths up to 8 ft. firefighters will use bulldozers and other heavy equipped to construct a fire line.  Where bulldozers are not available, fire engines with hoses and water will be required to “knock down” the flames before the fire crews with hand tools can be effective.  Or fire crews must construct a fire line at a considerable distance from the fire.

 

When flame lengths are 8 to 11 ft., air tankers with fire suppressing retardant or helicopters with water are required to reduce the fire’s rate of spread before fire line construction by crews of bulldozers can be effective.

 

If flame lengths are greater than 11 ft., direct fire suppression efforts will be ineffective.  Fire crews will need to retreat to existing roads, streams and other barriers.  They will then burn out fuels between the fire line and the advancing fire front.

 

DEFENSIBLE SPACE

Defensible space refers to that area between a house and an oncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been modified to reduce the wildfire threat and to provide an opportunity for firefighters to effectively defend the house.  Sometimes, a defensible space is simply a homeowner’s properly maintained yard.

 

All vegetation, including naturally occurring native plants and ornamental plants in the residential landscape, is potential wildfire fuel.  If vegetation is properly modified and maintained, a wildfire can be slowed, the length of flames shortened, and the amount of heat reduced, all of which assist firefighters to defend the home against an oncoming wildfire. 

 

During a major wildfire, it is unlikely there will be enough firefighting resources available to defend every home.  In these instances, firefighters will likely select homes they can safely and effectively protect.  The key is to reduce the fire intensity as wildfire nears the house.  This can be accomplished by reducing the amount of flammable vegetation surrounding a home.  Consequently, the most important person in protecting a house is not a firefighter, but the property owner.  And it’s the action taken by the owner before the wildfire occurs (such as proper landscaping) that is critical. 

 

Creating an Effective Defensible Space:  The size of the defensible space area is usually expressed as a distance extending outward from the sides of the house.  This distance varies by the type of wild land vegetation growing near the house and steepness of the terrain. 

 

Recommended Distances/Steepness of Slope

 

Flat to Gently Sloping               Moderately Steep         Very steep

Vegetation Type                    0 to 20%          .                 21% to 40%  .             +40%  .

 

Grass – wild land

grasses, weeds, and

widely scattered                          30 ft.                                    100 ft.                    100 ft.

shrubs with grass

under story.

 

Shrubs – includes

shrub dominant areas

(such as sagebrush,                   100 ft.                                    200 ft.                    200 ft.

oak/shrubs) and pin

-yon-juniper.

 

Trees – forested areas.

If substantial grass or                  30 ft.                                    100 ft.                    200 ft.

shrubs, use above values

 

For the most part, creating a defensible space employs routine gardening and landscape maintenance practices such as pruning, mowing, weeding, plant removal, appropriate plant selection, and irrigation.  While bare ground is certainly effective in reducing the wildfire threat, it is unnecessary and unacceptable due to appearance, soil erosion, and other reasons. 

 

Within the defensible space:

 

-         Clear out all dead vegetation including died grasses, wildflowers, needles, cones on the ground, leaves, firewood and other combustible debris. 

 

-         Thin trees and other plants or groups of plants. Separation distances between the outer branches of shrubs should be 4 times the height of the shrub on a moderately steep slope (21-40%) or 6 times the height on a very steep slope (+40%).  For shrubs that readily re-sprout, such as oak, pruning to reduce height may be the best approach.  Tree separation between tree canopies should be 20 ft. on a moderately steep slope and 30 ft. on a very steep slope.

 

-         Separate or remove “ladder fuel.”  Within the defensible space area, a vertical separation of three times the height of the lower fuel layer is recommended.  For, example, if a shrub growing adjacent to a large pine tree is three feet tall, the recommended separation distance would be 9 feet (3 ft. shrub height x 3 = 9).  This could be accomplished by removing the lower tree branches, reducing the height of the shrub, or both.  The shrub could also be removed.

 

-         Within an area extending at least 30 feet from the house, the vegetation should be kept lean (small amounts of flammable vegetation), clean (no accumulation of dead vegetation or other flammable items) and green (plants are healthy and green during the fire season).

 

-         Emphasize the use of low growing non-woody plants such as lawn, clover, a variety of groundcovers, bedding plants, etc.  Use mulches, rock, and non-combustible hard surfaces (concrete, brick and asphalt).  Deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs are acceptable if they are kept green, free of dead plant material, ladder fuels are removed and individual plants or groups of plants are arranged in a manner in which adjacent wild land vegetation cannot convey a fire through them to the structure.   Shorter deciduous shrubs are preferred.

 

-         Tree limbs within 15 feet of a chimney or touching the house should be removed.

 

Firescape Your Landscape:  Firescaping is landscape design that reduces house and property vulnerability to wildfire.  The goal is to develop a landscape whose design and choice of plants offers the best fire protection and enhances the property.  The ideal is to surround the house with things that are less likely to burn.  Minimize the use of evergreen shrubs and trees within 30 feet of a structure; because junipers, other conifers and broadleaf evergreens contain oils, resins and waxes that make these plants burn with great intensity.  Ornamental grasses and berries are also highly flammable.  Chose “fire smart” plants.  These are plants with high moisture content.  They are low growing.  Deciduous trees are generally more fire resistant that evergreens because they have a higher moisture content and lower fuel volume when dormant.  Learn about “fire-smart” plants through books, nurseries, garden clubs, Forest Service, etc.

 

Firescape design uses driveways, lawns, walkways, patios, parking areas, areas with inorganic mulches, and fences constructed of nonflammable materials such as rock , brick, or cement to reduce fuel loads and create fuel breaks.  Water features, pools, ponds or streams can also be fuel breaks.  Boulders and rocks become fire retardant elements in a design.

 

When designing a landscape for fire safety, remember less is better.

 

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS IN HOME DEFENSE

 

Roof and Chimney:  The most vulnerable part of a house to firebrands (flying sparks) is the roof.  Most homes in our area have metal roofs.  It is also important to clean all dead leaves and needles from the roof and gutters and remove any overhanging branches.    Treat wood shingle roofs and siding with retardant chemicals.  Have enough garden hose available to reach all parts of the roof.  Chimneys must have fire arresters.  Check for soot and keep dampers in good repair.  Soak hot ashes from fireplace fires in a covered metal container and let sit for 2-3 days before disposal.  Be sure ashes are out cold.

 

Construction:  Build your home away from ridge tops, canyons and areas between high points on a ridge.  Use fire resistant building materials.  Enclose the underside of balconies and aboveground decks with fire resistant materials.  Keep those areas free from inflammable material.  Limit the number of windows in your home that face large areas of vegetation.  Install only dual-paned or triple-paned windows.  Cover attic vents and louvers with a fine metal screen to prevent burning brands from entering the attic.

 

Yard:  Stack woodpiles at least 30 feet from all structures and clear away flammable vegetation within 10 feet of woodpiles.  Locate LPG tanks at least 30 feet from any structure and surround them with 10 feet of clearance.  Check with fire department before doing any burning on the property and follow their guidelines.  Stay with any fire until completely extinguished even if it is contained.  Have a water source ready and close by.  Build firebreaks.  Clear a trail, at least 6 feet wide, near the outer edge of the place you plan to fireproof.  Have spark arresters on outdoor equipment such a lawnmowers, chain saws, motorcycles and all other small internal combustion engines.

 

Barbecues and Incinerators:  Clear an area of all flammable materials for at least 5 feet all around your barbecue or incinerator and have a metal screen over all open incinerators.  Locate the barbecue or incinerator away from trees and at least 30 feet from structures.

 

Emergency Water Supply:  Clearly mark all emergency water sources and notify local fire department of their existence.  Create easy firefighter access to your closest emergency water source, have hoses and sprinklers available.  Consider an emergency generator to operate the well pump during a power failure.

 

Access:  Design driveway width, grade and curves to allow access for large emergency vehicles.  Add turnaround areas wide enough for emergency vehicles on dead-end drives or construct your drive with a looped entrance and exit.  Turnouts along the drive are also helpful.  Post house or property number at the entrance to the property.  Your name at the entrance is also helpful.

 

WHEN WILDFIRE APPROACHES

 

Should a house be threatened by wildfire, you may be advised to evacuate by a fire or law enforcement official.  The purpose of evacuation is to protect people from life-threatening situations.  Homeowners, however, do have the right to stay on the property if they so desire and so long as their activities do not hinder fire-fighting efforts.  If you are not contacted in time to evacuate or if you decide to stay with your home, the suggestions provided in the following checklist will assist in protecting your property and the lives of your family.  Keep in mind that your presence makes the firefighters’ job more difficult, and they may not be able to provide you with protection or assistance.

 

-         Evacuate, if possible, all family members not essential to protecting the house, as well as pets.

-         Contact a friend or relative and relay your plans.

-         Make sure family members are aware of the prearranged meeting place.

-         Tune into a local radio station and listen for instructions.

-         Place vehicles in the garage, have them pointing out, and roll up windows.

-         Place valuable papers and mementos in the car.

-         Close the garage door, but leave it unlocked.  If applicable, disconnect the electric garage door opener so that the door can be opened manually. Place combustible patio furniture in the house or garage.

-         Shut off propane at the tank

-         Wear only cotton or wool clothes. Proper attire includes log pants, long sleeve shirt or jacket, and boots.  Carry gloves, a handkerchief to cover face, water to drink and goggles.

-         Close all exterior vents.

-         Prop a ladder against the house so firefighters have easy access to the roof.

-         Make sure that all garden hoses are connected to faucet and attach a nozzle set on “spray.”

-         Soak rags, towels, or small rugs with water to use in beating out embers or small fires.

-         Inside, fill bathtubs, sinks and other containers with water.  Outside, do the same with garbage cans and buckets.  Remember that the water heater and toilet tanks are available sources of water.

-         Close all exterior doors and windows.

-         Close all interior doors.

-         Open the fire place damper, but place the screen over the hearth to prevent sparks and embers from entering the house.

-         Leave a light on in each room

-         Remove lightweight and/or non-fire resistant curtains and other combustible materials from around windows.

-         If available, close fire resistant drapes, shutter, or Venetian blinds.  Attach pre-cut plywood panels to the exterior side of windows and glass door.

-         Turn off all pilot lights.

-         Move overstuffed furniture to the center of the room.

-         Leave the front door unlocked so that firefighters have easy access in case of an interior fire.

-         Leave a note on the front door letting firefighters know that you have evacuated.

-         Keep wood shake or shingle roof moist by spraying water.  Do not waste water.  Consider placing a lawn sprinkler on the roof if water pressure is adequate.  Do not turn on until burning embers begin to fall on the roof

-         Continually check the roof and attic for embers, smoke or fire.

-         When the fire front arrives, take shelter inside your home.

 

If a fire should occur within the house, contact the fire department immediately.  Continue to inspect your house and property for embers and smoke.  Obviously, many of these suggestions would also apply should you evacuate when notified. 

 

Most importantly, STAY CALM!

 

**For a copy of “Living with Fire—A Guide for the Homeowner” and other fire related materials, contact the

 Forestry Resources Conservation Division

Cimarron District

P. O. Box 5

Ute Park, New Mexico 87749

(505) 376-2204

 

TO REPORT A WILDLAND FIRE 24 HOURS A DAY CALL COLLECT:

505-872-8080

 

TO KEEP ABREAST OF CURRENT WILDLAND FIRE INFORMATION:

www.fs.fed.us/r3/fire/

 

CHECK FIRE RESTRICTIONS BY CALLING:

1-877-864-6985

 

EVERGREEN FORESTRY CONSULTING

 

Provide for wildlife, increase forest health, while protecting your home from wildfire.

 

Stephani & Orlando Sandoval

P.O. Box 1128

Angel Fire, NM  87710-

(505) 377-3588

 

(Orlando Sandoval is the Fire Chief for the Angel Fire Fire Department.  He and his wife have started a consulting business that will assist homeowners in evaluating and improving fire protection remedies on the homeowner’s property.

 

Credentials:                  A. S. Fire Science, NMSU

                                    B.S. Forest Ecosystem Management, UI

                                    B.S. Forest Ecosystem Management, Fire Ecology, UI

                                    M.S. Forest Health, UI

 

PACKAGE B

            Consulting:

                        Prescription

                        Marking of timber

 

                          Defensible zone around house (100’ radius)    $ 225.00

                          Additional acreages                                                    $ 135.00 per acre

This includes observing and taking measurements of land, trees and slope, writing up a prescription and carrying out the prescription by marking leave and/or remove trees.

 

PACKAGE C

            Consulting:

                        Prescription

                        Marking

                        Cutting and removal of timber

 

                          Defensible zone around house (100’ radius)    $  TBA

                          Additional acreages                                                    $  TBA per acre

This includes observing and taking measurements of land, trees and slope, writing up a prescription and carrying out the prescription by marking leave and/or remove trees.  The trees will then be cut and removed from the property.

 

Defensible zones are designed to reduce the likelihood of fire from traveling in the crown of your trees and to increase the protection of your home.  However, they are not guaranteed that your land or home will not be damaged or destroyed in the event of a natural disaster.

 

·        Surveying of land not included.  If land needs to surveyed there is an additional cost.

·        Prices are subject to change and taxes are not included.

·        Prescription of land depends upon but not limited to species composition, slope of the land, riparian zones, and history of disturbance.